Luxembourg City - Bock Casemates

Luxembourg City was originally a cliff fortress, then a city behind walls, with the famous "Bock Casemates" at the ravine side, a warren of caves and tunnels. For defense, there is enough room for herds of animals, an army and citizens, plus cannon and storehouses. If you need convincing, go to arounder.com - a site with highlights of many major European cities. Find the casemates - the cave areas are huge.

The formations that enable the excavation and use of caves, as here, would be excellent geo-tourism sites because of the geological sites and attractions. See book "Geotourism" by Ross Dowling at this site: elsevier.com/wps/find/bookdescription.cws_home/706060/description#description.

See the fortress history at www.lcto.lu/html_en/sites_attractions/index. The system of tunnels and caves is known as the Luxembourg Casemates. Find the history of Luxembourg at www.lcto.lu/html_en/history/index. I understand that Luxembourg was a large geographic area years ago. They simply could not be defeated at the City, with their defenses, and their location was so important for trade. So the other countries diminished them when they could not defeat them - gradually chipping territory away around them by other wars, finally leaving little Luxembourg as it is now. Proud people, their own heritage.

In WWII, the Casemates served as a bomb shelter for - say the guidebooks - some 35,000 people. When you leave, Waterloo is a good destination point back in Belgium, leaving late afternoon the next day.

Diekirche - Military Museum

Large National Museum of Military History in Diekirch. See it at ://www.nat-military-museum.lu/, and at ://www.luxembourg.co.uk/NMMH/. See the exhibits here, ://www.luxembourg.co.uk/NMMH/show.html

They also were selling reproductions of American soldier dog tags there - we hope they were only reproductions. Even seeing fakes for sale is unsettling. Families, be prepared.

There is also a General Patton Memorial Museum, see ://www.luxembourg.co.uk/NMMH/patton.html. This is open seasonally, July 1-September 15 - now, surely someone can sponsor longer open times. Take up a collection. Patton deserves better. July 1! We were there in May. Check these dates out, but there is plenty else.

Ettelbruck

Dan Widing with General Patton, Ettelbruck, Luxembourg
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Ettelbruck. The statue of Patton is off to the side, a busy road in front - poor location for parking and seeing. Take the time to see the view he has. He is facing back to Belgium and the Bastogne, binoculars in hand. See www.luxembourg.co.uk/NMMH/patton.

Ettelbruck means "Attila's Bridge" - Attila dealt the final blow to the Roman legions here. Luxembourg: from old German, Lucilinburhuc or "little fortress" - a castle overlooking the Alzetter River. See ://www.everyculture.com/Ja-Ma/Luxembourg.html

Do take time to read the history of Luxembourg - its location in the mountains put it at trade crossroads, Paris to Triere, Metz to Aachen, and the surrounding areas were determined to safeguard their economic interests. Charlemagne brought in the Franks, Luxembourg's territory was whittled away until finally nobody could conquer their castle-cave-cliff stronghold. That remained. Read the detailed history at at://www.frommers.com/destinations/luxembourg/0107020044.html

History overview to Battle of the Bulge in Luxembourg - The Grand Duchy

Luxembourg had been within the sovereignty of other nations/ rulers for centuries (Burgundy, Spain even, France, Austria). Its origins go back to "Magdalenian" (what is that?) and Celtic tribes, see ://www.frommers.com/destinations/luxembourg/0107020044.html. The Celts fell to Rome in the 1st Century.

1839. The Congress of Vienna granted it Grand Duchy status, and awarded it to the Netherlands, William I of Orange-Nassau, as personal property and that relationship extended until 1890. The Grand Duchy was declared to be perpetually neutral.

1867. Treaty of London affirmed Luxembourg 's "territorial integrity" as a Grand Duchy

1890. The crown of the Duchy passed to the House of Nassau.

World War II. Battle of the Bulge. See the military overview here at ://www.luxembourg.co.uk/NMMH/waryears.html. This is why General Patton is buried in Luxembourg. See posts here on Hamm Military Cemetery.

"Letzebuergesch" - The native language. Germany's policy forbad use of this language during its Occupation, but it now is used freely and with great pride. Many languages now are used, so a knowledge of French or German and English will see any tourist through. See ://www.luxembourg.co.uk/lingua.html

1948. Luxembourg had been occupied by the Germans in both World Wars,. It remains off the usual tourist track. It is now no longer neutral, part of the European Union and other economic and political alliances.


2000. By now, there is a Constitution, Parliament, Cabinet, and His Royal Highness of the Grand Duchy and Executive is the Grand Duke Henri. He and his wife have five children. All this going on with Luxembourg and you and I could not even find it on a map.

General Patton buried here -Hamm Military Cemetery

Hamm Military Cemetery, outside Luxembourg City

General George S. Patton. World War II. After all his war activity, and I understand that many disagreed with his manner and methods. He is so revered in Normandy (see France Road Ways), that we expected him to have been buried there. See his biography at www.generalpatton.com/biography. Or see the movie, "Patton." The General is with thousands of American troops right here in Luxembourg, however. Without him, perhaps people like us, just driving around, would not make the side trip to Luxembourg at all. And we would have missed learning so much about this linchpin area. The location is so strategic, and has been for centuries.


We followed General Patton wherever we could find - and his final resting place is in this Hamm Military Cemetery just outside Luxembourg City. This had been his headquarters for a period of time. See www.abmc.gov/cemeteries/cemeteries/lx.php"> American Cemetery, Luxembourg His grave is set apart at the front, facing the 8000 graves of his troops.

Christmas 2006: When we read of the trucks of wreaths going to Arlington Cemetery this Christmas, 2006, and saw the pictures of them on the graves there, we thought of all the American service people buried in the huge European graveyards and no wreath program that we could find. Perhaps a few less for Arlington, and a few more to Europe's memorials. We are forgetting.

If you arrive at Hamm just before 5PM, maybe the caretaker will let you help lower the flag.

Patton died in a car accident. I understand that many people disagreed with him, and that he set his own course, but this looks like an exile. Attention should be paid.

Salute, General Patton. Off to the side now, but a giant.

Patton Liberated Plzen, the Czech Republic

Tribute to General Patton, Plzn, the Czech Republic
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We find so many tributes to the Americans liberating and fighting in France, Belgium, on and on. See France Road Ways.

Here is the monument at Plzen, the Czech Republic: Thank you, America, it says. But there were few wreaths in 2007. See http://www.radio.cz/en/article/65642.

See Czech Republic Road Ways; and The Places of Petr Ginz.
Eastern Europe. Can or do you feel loss of that image of Americans as willing to give their all for the downtrodden, without other motives overwhelming.

Luxembourg History - an Abstract through Coins

Here is a numismatist whose fine site focuses on the stories of money in many places, and explains the history of Luxembourg well - go to http://www.roth37.it/COINS/Lux/index.

Most of the site is in Italian, but click on "Abstract" when you have the opportunity and English will appear. http://www.roth37.it/COINS/Lux/abstract.html: the site person's objective --

"This work wants to show how Coinage can explain the History of a Country, showing how and when it was independent and when, on the contrary, he was subjected."

Summary from the site's abstract, for those who like to see the mixes that make modern cosmopolitan areas:

Luxembourg was occupied (Gauls, Germans, Caesar), became an Earldom, was upgraded to a Grand Duchy after the Earl became an Emperor and the Earldom passed to his heir, and the heir upgraded (Dukes being higher than Earls, Duke of Earl notwithstanding). "Engagistes" took over - French for people charged as governors for the sovereign (as when the sovereign is a minor?) and this often followed who owed whom which debts; then sovereigns gave-sold-gave-sold the country. So far we have Bohemians and Burgundians mostly. Then enter wars, ravaging, and a new player, Spain, who also held the Netherlands I think. Then it was passed by Spain to Austria, then Austria to France. Then to William of Orange, as part of the Netherlands. Then independence. Not for long. Occupied by Germany in WWI. After, Belgium wanted to annex Lux, but instead Lux established economic and not political union with Belgium. German Nazi occupation WWII. Freed (General Patton, buried there at Hamm Military Cemetary) and continuing independence (as a Grand Duchy??).

"Sometimes coins could explain it better than historiography, which is always written by the winners..." www.roth37.it/COINS/Lux/abstract.html

Vianden Castle, and a regular house today.

Many castles in Luxembourg - needed for its defenses. We tended to stop when we were hungry or restless - get out, find a cafe, amble through. Choose any castle anywhere for a time of refreshment and watching the world. Luxembourg is a favorite spot for bikers - big machines on those winding roads, so be careful going around corners. Big boots stomping in the pubs for lunch. Pubs are best for inexpensive, fresh food, smaller portions than restaurants, and faster.

We saw some castles as we drove around, then chose Vianden for lunch - the town is post-card quaint, and the castle is beautifully restored. We sat at leisure just below the castle, and watched all the bikers who also happened along. For a site on the castles in Luxembourg, see www.luxembourg.co.uk/vianden.

Regular modern houses: Orderly, and all very tidy. Is this a country where people are on time? They seem very organized.

Links, posts, archives

1. References to third party websites. Written out. Is this really needed? There must be a way to protect significant copyright interests in the internet setting, other than making it risky to include direct links to third-party sites. Risky it appears to be, however, see - as an example only - www.bitlaw.com and its copyright and linking on the internet discussions.

Smart people needed. Please help us get out of the horse and buggy access lane on the internet. Why not make it automatic for each site holder to decide upon uploading whether or not to allow immediate links? Everybody is blocked from seeing everybody else unless the site has clicked on the ok. Or, allow the free linking, but surcharge any copy materials such as disks (not a new idea, believe it was from 2002 somewhere?) - compensating copyrighted people when their material is accessed and from the fund? Is that so difficult when we land people on the moon?

Then what happens if a holder changes mind? I don't know. That is why we need smart people.

2. Posts. These are shown in the chronological trip order, not the order of posting. From arrival generally, to departure. So do read the archives. Those posts are not necessarily the older ones. They may complete the trip.
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Luxembourg Black Pudding - and other 4-star cuisine - Michelin

Some people want to know what they are eating. Here is a fine site for Luxembourg cooking. We found delicious Black Pudding, a specialized sausage that gets its name from a particular ingredient, which is why it is also called Blood Pudding. It is a practical use for that ingredient, also found in other countries, especially the British Isles, and Germany. Look under the meat dishes here, just scroll down at www.luxembourg.co.uk/recipes. Tiny country, big taste.

For a fast look at how to make Black Pudding, in case the topic is new, following here is an ingredient list. These are similar to the ingredients in hot dogs, both are sausages, but the texture and combinations are different. Black pudding is crumbly often. Chewy. Hot dogs look like pureed ingredients were used, and far too pink for cooked meat, so coloring is there. A far-too-chipper account is at www.coolquiz.com/trivia/explain/docs/hotdog.asp. Sounds like we should eat them every day. Is this sponsored by a hot-dog promotion council? This next site at least notes that recipes for hot dogs usually don't include the preservatives, coloring and sodium nitrate in store-bought dogs. See home.howstuffworks.com/question177. And how do the chemicals interact - well, you know.

In the United Kingdom (Scotland, England, Ireland), they use oatmeal in the Black Pudding, among other inside things. Check the list at.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/mostof_blackpudding.

For Luxembourg, they use bread. You can make "treipen" this way. There is an accent over the first "e" - looks like an accent grave (accent grave slants forward, to the grave; accent aigu points back to you, I recall from early French classes):

Assemble: pork head, lungs, kidney and tongue; cabbages, onions, dry bread, salt, pepper, herbs a bone grinder, pig's blood, casings (natural). For all the instructions, go to www.luxembourg.co.uk/recipes. Then do a cookbook for us all on worldwide sausages.

Luxembourg eating out. Twelve Michelin stars for nine restaurants, says this site: www.visitluxembourg.lu/prof-en-18-230.

We eat humbly abroad, maybe one or two real tablecloth places per trip, and they have always been memorable. We dress up (put on the other pair of trousers) and hob-nob. Hobnobbing is a kind of "chumminess" with "hob and nob" appearing about 1763, says this Bartleby site, a dictionary: www.bartleby.com/61/84/H0228400. How I wish I could do a direct link for that to you. Fun is lost when time gaps intervene.

Itinerary After The Fact

This side-junket to Luxembourg was part of our overall two-week Netherlands-Belgium-Luxembourg trip. We entered Luxembourg from the Bastogne area, Belgium, and immediately followed castles and General Patton: Esch-Sur-Sure, Ettelbruck, Diekirch, Larochette, and Luxembourg City. Then back to Belgium, and Waterloo. See Belgium Road Ways; and The Netherlands Road Ways.

Luxembourg City - an ancient fortress cliff

Do not miss Luxembourg if you are in the Ardennes, or at Bastogne, Belgium, for Battle of the Bulge matters related to WWI and WWII. It is close.

You need not do more than an overnight, if you are pressed for time and get an early start for the first day. Pay some tribute to General Patton, buried here at Hamm Military Cemetery outside Luxembourg City. See worldatwar.net/nations/luxembourg/narrative. See castles, then spend an overnight in Luxembourg City at least.

In Luxembourg City, there are the city walls with the old town inside.

More blogs about Luxembourg Road Ways.